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Finishing Amalgam-Mutt Blanks |
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Finishing the Amalgam-Mutts
The key to an even finish is proper sanding for these blanks. Turn with normal tools, just make sure they are sharp. Once you are done turning and before you start sanding, blow off all the dust, especially from any pores since any dust will be sealed into the blank in the next step. Then with the lathe off, dribble a little bit of THIN CA on one barrel then use one of the small plastic bags for the pen parts and spread the CA by hand turning the lathe and moving the bag along the blank. (Try to not let the CA pile up at the ends bec then the bushings may stick). To this to both barrels, then let the CA set for a few minutes. Then dry sand to about 600 and do the CA thing again, this sanding session will remove most of the CA on the surface but the key is to seal the pores. Then do the CA routine again and this time when you sand go up to 2000. Then do the CA routine again, after this the pores will be sealed so that you can wet sand if desired but do it gently so you do not sand through the finish, this time go up to 12000. What I do is I dry sand up to 2000 and then lightly wet (not always) sand with the micromesh up to 12000 then do your normal finish. It seems like a lot but you will be happy with the finish. I rarely wet sand though, since dry sanding and a CA finish is my normal routine.
Finishing the Ivory with Bloodwood Cross Blanks
The key to an even finish is proper sanding for these blanks. This is what I do. I turn with normal tool, just make sure they are sharp. About a "hair" before you are done turning and before you start sanding do this; with the lathe off, dribble a little bit of THIN CA on one barrel then use one of the small plastic bags for the pen parts and spread the CA by hand turning the lathe and moving the bag along the blank. (Try to not let the CA pile up at the ends bec then the bushings may stick). Do this to both barrels, then let the CA cure. Then turn to final size with very sharp tool and light cuts followed by dry sanding to about 600. This sanding session will remove most of the CA on the surface but the key is to seal any pores especially on the cross since you don’t want the red to stain the ivory. Wipe the blank with a dry cloth to remove any loose dust particles then do the CA routine again and this time when you sand go up to 2000. Wipe the blank again and do the CA routine one more time, after this the pores will be sealed so this time go up to 12000. I always put a final CA finish bec of its durability. It seems like a lot but you will be happy with the finish. You can also wet sand this blanks after the first 2 CA sessions.
Finishing the Coffee Blanks
The key to an even finish is proper sanding for these blanks. This is what I do. I turn with normal tool, just make sure they are sharp. About a "hair" before you are done turning and before you start sanding do this; with the lathe off, dribble a little bit of THIN CA on one barrel then use one of the small plastic bags for the pen parts and spread the CA by hand turning the lathe and moving the bag along the blank. (Try to not let the CA pile up at the ends bec then the bushings may stick). Do this to both barrels, then let the CA cure. Then turn to final size with very sharp tool and light cuts followed by dry sanding to about 600. This sanding session will remove most of the CA on the surface but the key is to seal the pores of the beans. Wipr the blank with a dry cloth to remove any loose dust particles then do the CA routine again and this time when you sand go up to 2000. Wipe the blank again and do the CA routine one more time, after this the pores will be sealed so this time go up to 12000. I always put a final CA finich on the coffee bean pens bec od its durability. A CA finish will reduce the aroma a bit but it will keep the beans sealed. It seems like a lot but you will be happy with the finish. DO NOT WET SAND it makes a mess.
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